How to Authenticate a Chanel 2.55 bag
Hi! I'm Winnie, I'm the founder of Vintage Heirloom.com. We specialize in selling vintage designer brands, such as Louis Vuitton, Celine, Gucci and Chanel.
One of the brands I'm going to talk about today is Chanel. Buying vintage authentic Chanel, is a minefield. So i'm going to discuss and show you the top 10 examples the differences between authentic and replica Chanel bags. And in particular, these two models the 2.55 Chanel classic flag bag.
Here, I have two, 2.55 classic flap bags, in the popular 10 inch size. One is authentic, and one is replica. Please take a moment to have a look at both bags. Can you spot the difference between the two?
This one here, is actually authentic and this one here is a replica. One of the most obvious comparisons between the two is the leather. Real 2.55 bags use lambskin leather. Lambskin, as it's name suggests is made from a lamb. It's known for it's buttery softness, it's very delicate, and it is often a very expensive leather to use.
People get confused about lambskin and calf skin. Calfskin is from a young cow, and is much more durable and hard wearing than lambskin, and the calfskins are used on the shoppers the totes and the Cambon Ligne lines, and the grande and petite shoppers.
Now we are going to look at the turnstile lock and the hardware. The double C lock is one of the most recognisable designs on the 2.55 bag. This iconic lock was designed by Carl Largerfield in the mid eighties. The original 2.55 lock, designed by Chanel herself is very different to what you see now. It's rectangular in shape and has no logo or Chanel stamping.
The double C lock is also referred to as the 'Mademoiselle' lock, as Chanel never married. Looking at the two turnstile locks the replica version has a thinner C and it's slightly shorter, and it has a rounded finish.
The authentic version has a slightly wider C, slightly longer, and it has a flat edge finish. also as a rule of thumb, looking at the turnstile lock the right C should always be over the left C hook.
A lot of people ask me what these markings mean, which sometimes you find on the left hand or the right hand or the bottom left or right. These mean the country of origin where the bag was made. Where there is a marking, the bag is usually made in France. So if there is a marking here, and open... it should say made in France in the bag. Where the hardware has no marking, then the bag is made in Italy.
Another important thing about the turnstile lock if you flip the bag over the backplate should have flat head screws. On the left it should say Chanel, and on the right it should say Paris.
Now we are going to look at the stitching. Designer high end bags should have a high stitch count, this ensures durability. It is also a costly production process as the needles go through a lot of wear and tear. Authentic bags should have more than 10 stitches per 1 inch.
This replica version has a low stitch count. You can tell by the overall puffiness and padded look of this bag. Now we are going to look at the lining. The lining is often overlooked. A sign of a quality item is the lining, and this is a good indication of whether a bag is authentic or a replica.
Let's look at the authentic bag. As you can see, the lining lies beautifully flat against the bag, it fits snuggly, with no lumps or bumps showing. Also it's quite difficult for me, to, separate the lining. I'm doing this with some difficulty here. If we compare this to the replica version, the lining inside... it's very baggy and loose, it's a sign of a poorly constructed bag. It's also very easy for me to pull out the lining.
Now we are going to look at the Chanel stamping. If we open the bag. The Chanel stamping should sit one and a half centimetres below the quilted C. It should say Chanel on one side. And opposite is should say made in France. So, it looks like it is mirroring each other. Another thing to look out for, it the gaps between the two double Cs. This distance should match the distance between this C and this C.
Now we are going to look at the replica version. Lift up the flap. As you can see, it says Chanel and made in France all on one side of the bag. Now this is true, but only on the caviar skin version, not on the lambskin. So, this is the authentic caviar skin version and as you can see it says Chanel, and made in France all on one side. And also please note, the caviar skin version has a black lining.
Now we are going to look at the chain straps. The allure of the 2.55 is the famous chain and leather straps. The authentic version the gold chain hardware is actually gilded with 24 carat gold and it is recognisable by, it's yellow gold appearance. It should also be heavy in weight.
If we compare... to the replica version, the chain strap, is a pale yellow gold colour, so it's obviously not gilded in 24 carat gold. And if we have the links side by side, the authentic version is actually a smaller link.
Now we are going to look at the shape. Let's compare the bags side by side. As you can see on the replica version the corners are more rounded. It's a sign that the bag has not been turned out properly. And on the authentic version it is more squared off.
Now we are going to compare the quilting on the bags. Quilting on the 2.55, should always maintain a consistent diamond pattern, even when the bag is closed. And when you turn the bag over, where the pocket sits, it should still maintain, a good diamond pattern shape. Like this, should be consistent, and should be running parallel.
Now the replica version, even I have to say they have done a pretty good job. When the bag is closed the quilting is running in a good shape, and it's not too bad at the back either. But i have seen replica versions where, there are loose threads, and there are marks of glue, obviously it's done very cheaply and quickly.
Now we are going to look at serial stickers. Serial stickers were first introduced in 1984 and continue to be used to the present day. Bags predating this, do not have stickers. The sticker, signifies that bag model and year of manufacture. I'm going to show you three examples, a six digit code, for example seen here, signifies that this bag was made some time between 1984 and 1986.
7 digit codes, for example, this bag here, means that this bags was made sometime between 1986 and 2004.
And 8 digit codes, which is seen in this bag here... means it's a model, made in 2005, to present day.
Channel do not made produce bags with serial numbers beyond 8 digits. If you see a bag with 9 digits or more, it's obviously a fake.
On the 2.55, the serial sticker should be found, on the bottom lefthand corner, as seen here. Customers often get hung up on a serial stickers and authenticity cards. In my opinion, these are the easiest things for a replica companies to copy. Just because a bag doesn't have a sticker, it doesn't mean it is not authentic.
For example, styles from the mid eighties to the mid nineties, the serial sticker, was literally just a sticker, so it could be easily rubbed off. So don't worry if you can find one.
And finally we are going to look at authenticity cards. The card system was introduced the same time as the serial sticker. Here, I have some replica cards... If we look at this card first, if I hold it up to the light, it has a hologram effect. A sort of rainbowy hue. This is a sign it is a replica because authentic cards do not have this hologram effect. Another example, is this card here, if you notice, the card, is misaligned. It's not even printed straight! Also, when I touch the card it feels like cardboard, it doesn't have the consistency of a credit card. Here I have two authentic cards. They do not have a hologram sheen, and they have the consistency of a credit card.
People ask me what this grey symbols means. Often people mistake this a a fake card. However, this is not the case. It means that the card and bag were made from 2005 onwards. The card with no symbol was pre 2005.
And finally, I think personally for me the biggest difference between replica and authentic bags is the quality. This authentic version here, is over 20 years old, and it's condition is immaculate. It is testimony, to Chanel craftmanship, as Chanel use the best artisans and the best materials. This bag was made to last.
Unlike the replica here, Ok it's a fraction of the price, but you get what you pay for. Replica bags will cut corners. They use the cheapest and quickest methods. The quality is not equal, to the authentic version.
So in summary, the top 10 things you should look out for, are...
- The quality of leather
- The turnstile lock and hardware
- The stitch count
- The lining
- The Chanel stamping
- The chain straps
- The overall shape
- Quilting
- Serial sticker
- And the authenticity card
Thank you for watching this film, my name is Winnie. All the information on this film has been researched, and collated over the years by myself.
For more fabulous vintage Chanel, please visit my website vintageheirloom.com
I'll see you again soon.