The CC turnstile lock is one of the most recognisable features on the 2.55 bag. This iconic lock was designed by Karl Lagerfeld in the mid eighties.
THE ORIGINAL 2.55 LOCK
The original 2.55 lock designed by Coco Chanel is very different. The double CC lock is also referred to as the ‘Mademoiselle’ lock, as Coco never married. This lock is rectangular and has no logo or Chanel stamping. Chanel continue to make 2.55 bags with both the original rectangular and CC lock.
Fig 1. Original 2.55 lock designed by Coco Chanel
Fig 2. CC lock designed by Karl LagerFeld
AUTHENTIC CC LOCK
The Cs on vintage 2.55s have a flat finish. More contemporary Chanel 2.55 bags have raised, rounded Cs. However Chanel now alternate, using both the raised and flat CC locks. Begin by checking that your lock’s right C overlaps the left C at the top. Also, the left C should overlap the right C at the bottom. Some replicas get this wrong. Take a few minutes to examine the quality of the finishing. Check by opening the lock as shown on the right (Fig. 4). The centre of an authentic lock has a smooth oblong shape. This applies to both the flat or raised CC lock.
Fig 3. Authentic Flat Gold CC Lock
Fig. 4 Authentic Gold CC Lock
The centre of the replica lock (Fig 5.) is oblong but there is additional metal above and below which is incorrect for 2.55s from the 80s/90s period. This style of lock may well appear on other styles of Chanel bags but not from the 80s/90s.The lock shape and finishing are different. Most fake CC locks won’t be finished in 24k gold, unfortunately this is difficult to determine by eye.
AUTHENTIC LOCK STEM
Forgers will occasionally take great care copying the CC lock and chain straps. So it’s important to continue to check all the other less obvious pieces of hardware. Often these are very revealing. Fig 7. is of a 25 year old lock stem. The gold guiding has worn somewhat but overall the component looks in great condition, especially considering its age.
Fig 7. Authentic 25 year old Chanel lock stem
REPLICA LOCK STEM
Compare this with our new replica stem below. The cheap gold coating has already started to peel off. Overall the quality is visibly more substandard.
Some other authentic and fake pieces of hardware for you to check and compare.