The following examples are some of the zippers I have come across from vintage Chanel bags from early 1980s to late 1990s. It is not an exhaustive list by any means but worth checking if your zipper appears below.
A big thanks to Gerry at Leather Surgeons for your help. If your Chanel bag uses metal teeth, see example below, the zipper should always be Lampo. Metal teeth zippers are very expensive, so fake bags often don’t use them or if they do they don’t use Lampo zips.
Bulbed shaped Lampo zipper
Lampo logo stamp underside of zip
This EP zipper is found on the privacy flaps of classic Chanel bags, including the 2.55. Reports suggest you can also find these on black, beige, white caviar and lambskin bags. The zipper usually has a pull tag. The pull tag is leather it should match the main material of the bag. For example, if the bag is caviar skin the leather pull tab should be caviar skin too! EP zipper pulls are still being used on present day Chanel bags. I have also found EP zips used on vintage Celine bags. EP zips are part of the Eclair Prym group. The French Eclair group later merged with the German Prym group in 1999.
Replicas bags sometimes use the incorrect zipper for the style or era. However there are literally thousands of zip combinations over the years and only extremely knowledgeable authenticators would be able to determine if a correct zip has been used. Here are some authentic zippers that Chanel have used. THREE CS IN A CIRCLE Quite common on the early 80’s style. Look for a circle with three C’s.
Opti-DMC, another common zipper found on Chanel bags from the 1990s.
Another company that is synonymous with luxury brands are Eclair zips. The first original zip was invented in the US in 1891. But in 1924 the zip was patented in France by Eclair and their Rouen based factory become the main supplier of quality zips to majority of Europe. Often Eclair zips are used on late 70s or early 80s vintage Chanel bags and also on vintage Hermes bags.
DMC zipper with a rounded CC pull tag.
YKK is a very common zipper found on many fashion lines. They are also used on more recent Chanel bags. NO MARKINGS Surprisingly sometimes vintage Chanel bags use plain zippers with no company or trade marks. So don’t be alarmed if a bag has a zipper like the two below.